Research Journal of Management Sciences _______________________ ______ ____ ___________ ISSN 2319 – 1171 Vol. 2 ( 5 ), 24 - 27 , May (201 3 ) Res. J. Management Sci. International Science Congress Association 24 Market Potentials of Mewar Wall Paintings Inspire Sarees Designs Babel Sudha, Tiwari Meenaxi and Dave Jayamala Deptt. of Textiles and Apparel Designing , College of Home science, Maharana Pratap University of Agriculture and Technology, Udaipur, Rajasthan, INDIA Available online at: www.isca.in Received 26 th December 201 2 , revised 21 st April 2013 , accepted 4 th May 2013 Abstract “A style of virile intensity characterized by glowing passionate colour, deft rhythm and robust simplifications” is mewar style. Indian art Mewar is distinguished not only for its lovely landscape and romantic architecture but also for a series of distingu ished rules who were not only valiant warriors but also patrons of art and culture. Mewar was the most important centre of early Rajasthani painting the “Golden Age of mewar”. Indian culture and its rich heritage of tradition are reflecte d in many of the v arious regions of this country and Rajasthan is famous for its profile art treasures. Even since the dawn of civilization man has felt the urge to decorate textile by the means of weaving, printing, dyeing and embroidery. Most of the India’s folk arts have been a great source of inspiration and ideas for the textiles as well as designers. Now - a - days fashion trends are fragile and the consumers constantly demand innovative changes over existing fields. Since the Mewar paintings currently do not find much usa ge on textiles, except as a few decorative painted wall panels, greeting cards etc. This folk art and traditional ideas that are the glitters of our culture, these applied on apparels by a commercial aspect is gaining popularity day by day through the inno vation of designer ideas that are performed into tangible products, though constant development in any field is essential. So it is with the field of traditional textiles. Indian folk art and embroidery play a n important role in the present - day fashion wor ld. Therefore a study was done to explore the market potential of designer sarees developed from traditional wall paintings of mewar. The idea was that the study would help in popularizing the traditional folk art and could be adopted by small – scale indus tries. and in this study. Total 30 Mewar painting were collected from various places and total number of 50 motifs were developed or modified from eleven best mewar paintings selected by the researcher. A rating Performa was developed by the researcher to select 15 modified motif for saree design. Further the selected fifteen modified motifs were used to develop 15 saree designs on computer to select the best five placements and its folk embroidery, prior to actual embroidery on sarees. A five point rating Performa and questionnair e was given to 60 respondents ( 20 Textile and fashion design,20 Housewives and 20 marketing personnel) selected purposively to find out the acceptability and market potential on embroidered sarees. Keywords: Tradiotional paintings, market potential, folk art, embroidery . Introduction Mewar paintings currently do not find much usage on textiles, except as a few decorative painted wall panels, greetings cards, etc. This art needs to be popularized in order to preserve its reminiscent beauty by adopting it on textiles 1 . The folk arts on textil es have been finding many new applications in the fashion field. Commercial use of folk design is gradually gaining popularity. folk art and traditional ideas that are the glitters of our culture, these were applied on apparels by a commercial aspect is ga ining popularity day by day through the innovation of designer ideas that are transformed into tangible products. The designers play the role of a catalyst. it is not as if we invented the crafts, they were all there. All we did was kindle creative energy of traditional weavers, printers and embroidered and blend out and new with stunning effect 2 . This way it not just the craftsman but also the customer who is benefitted. The s pecific objectives of the study conducted by the authors are: Objec tives : i. To collect various motifs used in Mewar paintings. ii. To develop embroidery designs suitable for sarees from selected motifs/ designs. iii. To assess the market potentials of developed designs on sarees. Material and Methods For the purpose of the study 60 respondents (20 textile and fashion designers, 20 housewives, 20 marketing personnel) were selected purposely. The researcher personally visited various museums and libraries located at Udaipur and collected thirty mewar pai ntings. After critical evaluation of all these paintings only even paintings were identified as sources of inspiration for developing new modified motifs suitable for sarees total fifty motifs were taken out. Folk embroidery is always associated with the women folk. it is a for m of their self expression researcher used folk embroidery of Rajasthan, Assam silk fabric of gray colors and cotton embroidery threads were the additional material used to develop embroidered sarees 3 . Research Journal of Management Sciences _______________________ ______ ____ _______________________ ISSN 2319 – 1171 Vol. 2 ( 5 ), 24 - 27 , May (201 3 ) Res. J. Management Sci. International Science Congress Association 25 Design development on saree a nd assessment of its market potential : Application of folk embroidery: The researcher used carbon paper to transfer the design on sarees. After this stretching of fabric on frame and folk embroideries of Rajasthan were made by researcher. Selection of mot ifs: i. Beautiful Mewar paintings selected were Ragini Maru, Maharana playing chaupad, Maharana shooting bear, Ragmal kosik, Meetings of Rama and Parsurama,Mad/violent elephant, Ansuayana Naayika, Raga sarang,Yudha Kanda of Arsya Ramayan, Marriage scene an d procession scene. ii. The researcher developed /modified 50 motifs from selected Mewar paintings and 15 motifs were finally selected by the experts. iii. Motifs code no. 38, 9, 37, 5, 43, 33, 50, 7, 2244, 1, 29, 12, 23, 42 were most suitable for sarees of the with percentage ranging from 84 - 64% experts. Application of folk embroidery of Rajasthan: i. Assam silk material was selected for designing sarees. ii. Anchor thread, Rasam thread, sitara, mirror were used for folk emriodery. iii. Mochi Bharat, Si ndhi embroidery, Mirror work, Running stitch and Chain stitch were used by the researcher for doing embroidery. In order to assess the market potential of the embroidered sarees: In order to assess the market potential of the embroidered sarees researcher estimate the cost and profit of 20%,40%,60% were added responses were obtained by the respondents and questionnaire was developed to ask some questions related to market potential of the embroidered sarees by 60 respondents. To assess the cost of the embr oidered sarees following parameters were considered. i. Cost of fabric , ii. Cost of embroidery material , iii. Design training charge , iv. Labor charge Result s and Discussion Each of the embroidered saree was independently rated using five point rating sca le by 60 respondents. Table - 1 Acceptability score obtained by all saree on the relative ranking N=60 S.No. Total scores Percentage Rank Saree1 2636 87.86 I Saree2 2574 85.8 II Saree3 2532 84.4 III Saree4 2500 83.3 IV Saree5 2439 81.3 V Total score obtained acceptability index 3000 Table 1 gives the acceptability of all embroidered sarees, on the basis of suitability of the fabric selected, placement of motif, suitability of the motifs to the end use design, suitability of design for embroidery, color combination, quality of workmanship, preference of saree, selection of embroidery material, Acceptability o f the concept, overall appearance, where the total scores of each design was divided by maximum obtainable scores, that was 3000, 300 was minimum score any design could get. It was found that saree S 1 was highly acceptable, followed by saree S 2 , S3, S4, S5 . As revealed earlier saree S 1 was appreciated by most of the respondents in all criteria. Figure - 1 Acceptability score obtained by all saree on the relative ranking N=60 78 80 82 84 86 88 Saree1 Saree2 Saree3 Saree4 Saree5 Percentage (%) Accepability Scores of Sarees Research Journal of Management Sciences _______________________ ______ ____ _______________________ ISSN 2319 – 1171 Vol. 2 ( 5 ), 24 - 27 , May (201 3 ) Res. J. Management Sci. International Science Congress Association 26 Table - 2 Estimation of cost of the embroidered sarees S.No Criteria of cost estimation Sarees S1 S2 S3 S4 S5 1. Cost of fabric 240 240 240 240 240 2. Cost of embroidery material 60 60 40 40 50 3. Design Tracing charge (Rs.) 90 90 90 90 90 4. Labour charge (Rs.) 375 375 300 300 325 5. Total cost(Rs.) 765 765 670 670 705 Figure - 2 Estimation of cost of the embroidered sarees Evaluation of the saree design, simulated on computer: Majority of the experts selected placement of sarees design code number 42 with 89%. Modified motif code number 22, 9, 7 and 5 placement were found more appropriate by 87 to75% respectively. Evaluation of the embroidered sarees: The opinion of the respondents was coded to find out the acceptability of the embroidered sarees and it was found that: i. All the embroidered sarees had acceptability of and above 80%. ii. Sarees S 1 stood first with 2636 points and had highest acceptability of 87.86%. Market potentials of the embroidered sarees and their cost of estimation: i. The cost of sarees ranged from Rs.705 t o 765. ii. Majority of respondents wanted to give 20 percent profit while few also opened to give up to 60% profit. iii. Developed embroidered sarees has good market potentials. iv. Majority of respondents would like to purchase this type of sarees. The f indings in table .2 shows that the cost of the embroidery material and labour charges in sarees S1, S2 are maximum score because both the design maximum embroidery and heavy folk embroidery. Respectively cost of embroidery and labour charges in sarees S3,S4 was minimum because both the design were used minimum embroidery material and folk embroidery it also reveals that cost of all embroidered sarees was reasonable and adequate. Conclusion Thus, it can be concluded that developed designs for sarees were hig hly acceptable and enough market potentials. The cost 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 Saree1 Saree2 Saree3 Saree4 Saree5 Cost (Rs) Estimation of cost of embroidered sarees Cost of Fabric Cost of Embroidery Material Design Tracing Charge Labour Charge Total Cost Research Journal of Management Sciences _______________________ ______ ____ _______________________ ISSN 2319 – 1171 Vol. 2 ( 5 ), 24 - 27 , May (201 3 ) Res. J. Management Sci. International Science Congress Association 27 of the designed sarees was not found very expensive when compared to other readymade sarees available in the market. More over the colour combination and creativity of design were main criteria for cons umer acceptability as revealed by respondents. Creating new textile designs, being inspired from mewar paintings, gives a new way to discover something which is unique and also gives an opportunity to the consumer for an alternative to choose and this call s ,for textile designers, students and teachers to express their creativity and develop fresh designs 4 . Folk embroidery can be useful as self employment project by using them in making different design of sarees for sales through boutiques or retailers and also a good boost up for self creativity. References 1. Vashistha R.K., Mewar Ki Chitrankan Parampara , Unique Traders, Jaipur (1984) 2. www.ritukumar.com (2012) 3. Vijayvargiya R. Rajasthani Paintings - Paintings of Udaipur, Vigayvargiy Kala Mandal, Jaipur, First Edition, 19 - 21 (1953) 4. Verma P. , Vatsra Vigayan Avam Paridhan, Madhya Pradesh Hindi granth Akadmi, 331 - 335 (2000)